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Garden gates sag because a square (or rectangular) framework is basically unstable. Built with normal DIY woodworking joints, the gate will spin unless it’s braced or dragged into tension. This trend is exaggerated as a gate is held along just 1 side; the unhinged, free side sags from its own weight and out of the trauma of being slammed. Three basic ways to construct a no-sag gate are illustrated here.

Use rust- and – corrosion-resistant materials; construct to shed water; prevent exposed end grain and water traps. Power is important as a gate goes. Sink articles into concrete; utilize heavy-duty fasteners; create great, strong joints. In terms of wood choice, the best course of action is a rot-resistant species (cedar, redwood, teak, mahogany). Cedar wins since teak is quite expensive and has a high waste variable; redwood ought to be used only if it’s recycled old-growth timber, and less-resistant mahogany requires a finish coating. Pressure-treated lesser forests are in disfavor because we now know that the preservatives do move (to the touch, and to the water table) and since cuts require highly toxic onsite therapy.

The first two approaches for constructing a no-sag gate involve the principle of triangulation: introducing a diagonal to stabilize the square frame. The tension alternative uses a pole or a cable and turnbuckle, as shown, to keep the frame from twisting out of square. However, “diagonal bracing is just as stable as the principal joint to which it is fastened,” states woodworker Charles Prowell. The compression solution uses a strong brace along the other diagonal.Rigid woodworking joints also will maintain a gate from sagging. A pegged mortise-and-tenon joint is powerful. You should try and cut the mortise accurately to get a tight fit, but if there is any drama, shim around the tenon. Notice that the pales (pickets) are inserted through holes drilled in the rails.

To guarantee a really tight mortise-and-tenon joint, then drill the holes at the tenon just a little off center in the holes you drill at the face of the post. In this way, when you push the pins, they will function as a leash, tightening the joint. This is referred to as a draw-peg joint. Cut the mortise somewhat deep to permit for draw.